Fixed The TV will just sit in a fixed position on the wall, parallel with the wall surface. You can get “slim” or “low profile” fixed brackets which mean the TV will not stand off the wall as much (approximately 10mm rather than about 30-40mm in a typical bracket ) but if you intend to use a TV with rear facing AV sockets and inadequate recess in the chassis, you will need to make other considerations to allow use of these rear facing connections so sometimes it isn’t worth the trouble. You may not end up using the rear facing sockets, that’s totally up to you. What you do not want is for your cable to be kinked and squashed between the TV and the wall.
Tilting These are like fixed brackets with the exception that they can allow the TV to be tilted after mounting the TV if you require this.
Full Motion These are typically your more expensive ones because they allow the TV to be pulled away from the wall when mounted, tilted up or down or turned left or right. They do this by having a bracket mounted to an arm or dual arms which are attached to a base that is fixed to the wall. They will typically not sit as flat against the wall as a fixed mount but if you need the motion of the bracket, this is what you would get.
Things to consider. Apart from selecting the type of bracket that you need, every bracket will have 2 pieces of information that you will want to know.
Load rating – The maximum weight that the bracket is designed to support. You can find the weight of your TV in the back of your manual, it should be about 25Kg.
Mounting Bolt Spacing – This is important to ensure the bracket will suit the mounting bolt pattern on the back of the TV. You will see mention of VESA (Video Electronics Standards Assotiation pattern such as 200×200, 400×200 etc. Your TV manual will have the bolt spacing of your TV. It describes the distance the bolts are apart horizontal and vertically, expressed in millimeters (mm).Note most bolts supplied with TV wall mounts can be questionable use aslarge as you can get and in metal stud walls use locking type.
The size suggestion is only a suggestion, it’s great so you can do a fast search and filter out most of the brackets that would not satisfy the above 2 requirements.
There are so many mounts out there it would be hard to give you that 1 good suggestion, they are all fine mostly and not that different from each other – particularly for fixed wall brackets as most are your typical rear mounting plate with 2 arms that hook onto the plate design.
You can get some pretty sketchy full motion brackets and price is no indicator as some of the more expensive ones are terrible.
You can use a Bullnose wall plate for the concealed in-wall cabling. You can also use a recessed mounting system for both the power point (get an electrician to do this) and AV cabling. If not mounting on a typical stud wall but are instead mounting on concrete or brick you can then look at a few other solutions. Hard to really say much more without knowing some of the detail but this should get you going.
Start with the middle of the TV being roughly at your eye height when seated, approximately 1000mm -1100mm and then adjust to suit your preferences from there. As a guide 750mm from floor to bottom of a 65: TV.
If it’s a new build good idea to instal in wall cables in 40mm Vinidex pipe for upgrades later (like HDMI 2.1)